Mount Fuji was never meant to be seen only from a distance, and the shrines at its foot are where the older idea of the mountain as a god survives. The Kawaguchi Asama-jinja sits among tall old cedars on the north side, near Lake Kawaguchi, one of the five lakes that ring the mountain's northern foot, and it is one of the shrines that were used by pilgrims before they began the climb. The deity honoured at the Asama shrines is Konohanasakuya-hime, the princess of the blossoming trees, who is linked with the mountain and its volcanic fire.
The cedars at the shrine are some of the largest in the area, and walking in under them feels like stepping out of the tourist crowds. The shrine is part of the Mount Fuji World Heritage property, listed as a cultural landscape in 2013, which includes the climbing routes, lakes, shrines and the old pilgrim lodgings. Between them they show how the mountain became sacred, with believers walking in white clothing and ringing bells, and the old Fuji-ko confraternities still exist.
For a rider, this corner of Japan is a classic. The road round the lakes is a pleasure, with open stretches, lake views and, if the weather allows, the cone of Fuji above you. The Fuji Subaru Line climbs to the fifth station at around 2,300 metres, but it is closed in winter and may be restricted in the peak climbing season, so check before you go. Cloud often covers the summit by mid-morning, so early starts reward you with the best views, and autumn and winter mornings are the clearest. Weekends and holidays are busy, with tour buses, and the temperature at the lake is cooler than in Tokyo.
Fujikawaguchiko is the nearest town and has several fuel stations, while Fujiyoshida, a bit farther, has more shops and the old pilgrim street. Try hōtō, the thick noodle stew of Yamanashi, which is warming on a cool day, and if you can, take a short walk in the nearby forest of Aokigahara, where moss covers the lava and the ground is quiet.