Katsuren castle stands on a limestone hill on the east coast of Okinawa, near the base of the Katsuren peninsula, and its curving walls step up the slope in a series of enclosures to a summit with sweeping views across the sea. It is one of the gusuku, the castles of the old Ryukyu kingdom and the warring lords who came before it, and it was inscribed in 2000 together with Nakijin, Zakimi, Nakagusuku, Shuri and several sacred groves.
The castle is associated with Amawari, a fifteenth-century lord who grew rich on trade and became powerful enough to challenge the king himself. In the Ryukyu court histories, he is cast as a villain who attacked a loyal rival and was destroyed for it, but in local tradition he is remembered as a popular hero who looked after his people. Excavations here have turned up Chinese porcelain and other foreign goods, a reminder that this little island was at the crossroads of trade routes linking China, Japan, Korea and Southeast Asia. The wall stones are fitted together with impressive precision, and the smooth curves are typical of Okinawan castle design.
From the top you can see the Kaichu-dōro, a long causeway road running straight out across the shallow sea to Henza island, and beyond it to Miyagi and Ikei islands. Riding it is a highlight of any trip to Okinawa: water on both sides, often turquoise, and the islands at the end with small villages, beaches and the odd sugar cane field. Wind can be strong on the causeway, and sudden tropical downpours are common.
Okinawa's roads are well kept and drive on the left, as in mainland Japan. Traffic around Okinawa City and Uruma can be heavy, and speed limits are low and carefully observed. Katsuren-haebaru and the surrounding towns are well served with fuel stations, convenience stores and restaurants. Try Okinawa soba, pork belly rafute, goya champuru, and the local Orion beer when you are done riding for the day. Typhoons hit between summer and autumn, so check forecasts.