It takes a certain nerve to build a dam in a country this steep, and Katse is the proof that it can be done. Completed in the mid-1990s as part of the Lesotho Highlands Water Project, the dam is a thin concrete arch nearly 190 metres high that holds back the Malibamatšo river, creating a long, branching reservoir in the mountains of central Lesotho. Water from it flows through a tunnel of some forty kilometres to the Ash river in South Africa, supplying the Gauteng region, around Johannesburg and Pretoria, while Lesotho receives royalties for the water.
The road to the dam is one of the most spectacular in the country. From the north, it climbs over high passes, including the Mafika Lisiu Pass, which is among the highest paved roads in Africa, then descends to the lake through a landscape of bare ridges, gorges and deep blue water, with Basotho villages perched on the slopes. The road was improved to serve the project, so the surface is mostly good, though landslides and potholes occur, and mist can reduce visibility sharply. Sheer drops and few barriers call for concentration.
The reservoir changes the character of the highlands, with the lake stretching away in long arms between the hills, and the dam wall itself, a curved sweep of grey concrete, is impressive from the viewpoint. A visitor centre explains the history and engineering, and tours of the dam wall can be arranged. Some of the drowned valleys held villages and fields, and resettlement was part of the project, a subject that is discussed openly in the area. Birdlife includes the bearded vulture and the Cape vulture, which soar along the cliffs.
Thaba-Tseka, twenty-three kilometres from the dam, is a small town with fuel, shops and basic services, and it is the best place to stock up, though supplies can be limited, so do not arrive with a nearly empty tank. A lodge near the dam offers meals and rooms with lake views, and boat trips and walks can be arranged. At altitude, the weather turns quickly, with cold nights even in summer, so bring warm gear. The late afternoon light on the water and the mountains is worth waiting for.