The dot sits east of Prague, in the broad valley of the Elbe at Brandýs nad Labem and Stará Boleslav, two towns that run into each other across the river. It is a long way from Karlštejn, on the other side of the capital, and the ride is on its way home, crossing the flat farmland of the Polabí, the Elbe lowland, where the land is wide, the roads are straight and the sky is huge.
Stará Boleslav is a place of deep significance for the Czechs. According to tradition, Prince Wenceslas, the good king of the Christmas carol, was murdered here by his brother Boleslav around 935, after being invited to a feast, and the spot is marked by a Romanesque church. Pilgrims come each September on the saint's day, and the town is also home to a famous Marian shrine, a small image of the Virgin that was carried into battle by Habsburg armies. Brandýs nad Labem, across the river, has a Renaissance castle, once a hunting lodge for the emperors, and a quiet old centre.
The earlier part of the ride lies in the valley of the Berounka, west of Prague, and Karlštejn castle is the highlight. Charles IV had it built in the 1340s to protect the imperial crown jewels and holy relics, and its great tower, with a Chapel of the Holy Cross decorated with precious stones and painted panels, stands above the village on a steep limestone crag. The road from Karlštejn through the Berounka valley is narrow and winding, with high rock walls and pretty villages.
By comparison, the final stretch is plain riding. The roads around Brandýs are busy with traffic bound for Prague, and the Elbe is crossed by bridges that can be congested at rush hour. Speed limits are enforced, and in towns, the cobbled centres can be slippery. At a quiet moment, though, the river bank has trees, benches and a calm, wide view.
Fuel is easy in both towns, with supermarkets and cafes near the main square, and there are a number of traditional pubs serving beer and hearty food. Kostelec nad Labem, a smaller town nearby, is pleasant and has an old castle. In spring the orchards are in blossom, and in autumn the fields are brown and mist hangs over the river.