Kargopol is one of the oldest towns in the Russian North, set on the Onega River in a landscape of lakes, bogs and forest that has changed little for centuries. Chronicles mention it in the twelfth century, and it grew into an important trading place on the routes to the White Sea. Today it is a quiet town of about eleven thousand people with a surprising number of old churches, many of them in white stone with green or silver domes, and the streets are lined with low wooden houses with carved window frames.
The town is known for its folk crafts. The Kargopol clay toy, with its bright geometric patterns in red, white and green on a pale clay body, is a symbol of the region. The most famous figure is Polkan, a mythical creature that is half man and half dog. The craft was kept alive by a few families in the twentieth century and is now sold across Russia. The local museum has a fine collection of icons, textiles and wooden objects, and the Cathedral of the Nativity, built in the sixteenth century, is a landmark.
The countryside around Kargopol is part of the Lake Lacha basin and leads to the Kenozero National Park, a region of lakes and old villages that holds some of the best-preserved wooden chapels and houses in Russia. The roads are a mix of paved and gravel, with sections that become soft after rain. Distances are long and traffic is light, which suits slow travel. The best time to go is summer, from June to August, though in July the mosquitoes can be ferocious. Autumn brings a golden light and fewer insects. Winter is long and cold, with roads under snow.
Practical matters need planning. Kargopol has fuel stations, basic hotels and a few cafes, but the villages beyond are small and have few services, so fill up and carry food and water. Phone coverage can be thin in the forest. The town is far from large centers, and repair shops are limited.
Walk along the river in the early evening and watch the swallows over the water. The sound of church bells carries a long way over the flat land.