Kargil sits at about 2,700 metres in the Suru valley in Ladakh, a town of tin roofs, apricot trees and mountains the colour of ash. Most travellers know it as a night stop on the road between Srinagar and Leh, which is about right, but it has a character of its own. Most of its people are Shia Muslims of Balti descent, and the call to prayer carries across the river valley beneath peaks that stay snowy for much of the year.
The town is also associated with the 1999 conflict between India and Pakistan, fought on the ridges above the highway, and there is a war memorial at Dras, about sixty kilometres to the west, that tells the story. Dras itself is known as one of the coldest inhabited places on earth, with winter temperatures that can plunge far below freezing. Before the war and the border closures, Kargil was a halt on the old caravan routes to Central Asia, and traders passed through with salt, tea and wool.
The highway here is one of the world's great rides. West of the town, it crosses the Zoji La from Kashmir, a narrow and often busy mountain pass, then follows the Dras and Suru rivers. East of Kargil, the road climbs through Mulbekh, with its carved Buddha statue, and over two passes, Namika La and Fotu La, the latter at over 4,000 metres, before reaching the monastery of Lamayuru, which sits above a barren landscape often called moonland. The road surface varies from good tarmac to rough, broken sections, with landslides common in monsoon and after snowmelt. The route is generally open from about May to October, and the Zoji La closes in winter. Altitude is a serious matter, so acclimatise and drink plenty of water.
Kargil has fuel, but supplies can be limited, and it is the last dependable fill-up for a long distance, so top up and carry a spare can. Simple guesthouses and restaurants serve rice, lentils, momos and strong sweet tea. Carry permits and documents, because checkpoints are routine, and start early, as afternoon winds and meltwater can complicate the road.