Kappeln is a small Baltic port on the Schlei, the long narrow inlet that cuts forty kilometres into Schleswig-Holstein, and its harbour has the busy, salty feel of a working fishing town. Wooden boats line the quays, nets hang to dry, and gulls wheel above the fish stalls. The town sits at the point where the Schlei narrows, so a bridge crosses it, and from the quay you can watch it lift to let tall-masted sailing ships through.
What makes Kappeln unusual is the herring fence, the Heringszaun, a trap of stakes and nets set across the water at the edge of town. It is said to be the last working one in Europe, and it catches herring as they swim in during spring, a method that has been used on the Schlei for centuries. Smoked herring and fresh fish are sold in the town, and a plate of Matjes with potatoes and sour cream is a local classic. A windmill named Amanda, a Dutch-style mill on the quay, stands over the harbour and is a favourite subject for photographers.
The region is called Angeln, the homeland of the Angles, the tribe that crossed to Britain in the fifth century and gave England its name, and the countryside has a flat, hedged, pastoral look that echoes a very old past. The surrounding villages have thatched cottages and farm shops, and the roads run through fields to the sea.
For riders, Kappeln is a coffee-and-fish stop: the roads in and out are straightforward, with moderate traffic and a good surface, and the pleasure is in the harbour itself. With nearly ten thousand people the town has fuel stations, supermarkets and plenty of cafes, and it is easy to park by the water. In summer the quays are busy with visitors, and a table with a view of the boats is hard to find on weekends.
The best time is spring, when the herring run and the light is clear, or in early autumn, when crowds have thinned. Wind off the water can be cold, so carry a layer even on a sunny day.