Kapalua is a low-key resort on the north-west tip of Maui, built on what was once a huge pineapple plantation, and it sits on a coast of bays, headlands and lava rock facing the island of Molokai across the channel. The plantation land is now golf courses and condominiums, with some pineapple fields still hanging on, but the setting is lovely, with the green West Maui Mountains rising behind and the sea bright blue in front. Honolua Bay, just along the coast, is a marine reserve known for snorkelling in summer and big surf in winter.
Near here, the road heads into one of the most dramatic and demanding rides on the island. The Kahekili Highway wraps around the rugged north coast of West Maui, past blowholes, sea cliffs and tiny villages, and it is narrow and winding, with long stretches of single lane, blind corners and steep drops. It is named for Kahekili, the Maui chief who ruled much of the islands in the eighteenth century. Many rental car agreements prohibit driving it, because of the risk, and the road demands your full concentration, with slow speeds and frequent use of the horn on blind turns.
The scenery is spectacular, with deep green valleys, waterfalls after rain, and a cliffside road dropping to sea level and back up again. Nakalele Point has a blowhole that sends water spurting skyward when the swell is up, and a rough trail leads to a lighthouse, but the lava rock is sharp and dangerous in heavy surf. The sea here is powerful, and people have been swept off the rocks. Wet weather is also a hazard, making the road greasy and prone to rockfall, so avoid it in heavy rain.
Practical matters need care. Lahaina, the old whaling capital and royal seat, was devastated by a wildfire in August 2023, and the community is still recovering, so be respectful and patient if you pass through. Carry water and food, and keep a good distance on blind curves. Mornings are best, when there is less traffic, and the light is clear.