Kangding is where the Chinese road meets the Tibetan plateau. The town sits in a narrow gorge where two rivers join, at the foot of the Gongga massif, and for centuries it was the main trading point between Han China and Tibet, where tea from Sichuan was exchanged for horses, wool and medicinal herbs. The Tibetan name is Dartsedo, and the town remains a meeting place of two cultures, with Tibetan monasteries, prayer flags and markets beside Chinese shops and restaurants.
The ride on the G318, the Sichuan-Tibet Highway, from Chengdu is long and dramatic. It leaves the plain through Ya'an, then climbs steeply over the Erlang Mountain pass, crosses the Dadu river near Luding, whose iron chain bridge, built in 1706, was the scene of a famous episode in the Long March in 1935, and arrives at Kangding at an altitude of about 2,600 metres. Beyond Kangding the road climbs over high passes of more than 4,000 metres, such as the Zheduo, into the grasslands of the plateau. The surface is mostly paved but can be damaged by landslides, and rain and fog are frequent.
The famous folk song, Kangding Love Song, is named for the town and is known throughout China. Paoma Mountain overlooks the town, and there is a viewpoint with a monastery and good views of the surrounding valleys. The food is a mixture of Sichuan and Tibetan, with spicy hotpots, yak meat, butter tea and tsampa.
Kangding has fuel stations, hotels and restaurants, and is the last major town before the high plateau, so stock up here. Altitude sickness can be a problem, and the weather changes fast, so carry warm and waterproof clothing. In the rainy season, from June to September, landslides can block the road, while winter brings ice and snow on the passes. Spring and autumn are the best times to ride, when the air is clear and the mountains are visible. Check road and permit rules, since regulations for foreign riders in China are strict.