Kamphaeng Phet means diamond wall, though the name probably refers to the strength of the fortifications rather than to any gems. The historical park lies on the Ping river in the lower north of Thailand, a short ride from a provincial town of nearly sixty thousand, and it protects the remains of a city that served as a fortress of the Sukhothai kingdom in the fourteenth century. Together with Sukhothai itself and Si Satchanalai, it makes up a UNESCO World Heritage group that records the first great Thai kingdom.
The ruins are made of laterite, the reddish, porous stone that was quarried locally, and many are covered with moss and the roots of old trees. Rows of columns stand in the grass, the remains of halls, and big seated Buddhas rest in the shade of the forest, some with their heads missing and some still serene. Wat Phra Kaeo, the temple of the Emerald Buddha in the old days, has a row of chedi and a tall standing figure, and the temple of the elephants, Wat Chang Rop, has a base surrounded by sculpted elephants, which look as if they are carrying the monument on their backs. Walls and moats of the city can still be traced.
The park is sprawling, with the main groups inside the old town and others in the forest to the north, and the best way to see it is to ride slowly from one temple to the next, or hire a bicycle. Paths are mostly paved, with some bumpy sections. Heat is the main enemy, with temperatures regularly above thirty-five degrees, so go early or late, wear a hat and carry water. The rainy season, from June to October, brings sudden downpours and thick green growth.
The road from Sukhothai, about eighty kilometres to the north, is straight, flat and fast, with long views over rice fields and the occasional town. Kamphaeng Phet has fuel stations, noodle shops, a night market and simple hotels, and the town's river promenade is a pleasant place to sit as the sun goes down.
Visit between November and February for the coolest weather, and linger at sunset, when the laterite glows.