Kalmak Ashuu is the northern gate to the Song Kol plateau, a pass of about 3,450 metres on the track that climbs out of the Kochkor valley, and it is the one that most riders take when coming from Bishkek or Issyk-Kul. The name means something like the pass of the Kalmyks, and tradition links it to the Oirat peoples who moved through this region centuries ago, though like many Central Asian place names the origin is half legend. The road leaves the valley floor and climbs in a series of long switchbacks across dry hills, past clusters of yurts and flocks of sheep, to a saddle of bare grass and rock with a great view to the south over the plateau.
The surface is gravel for most of the way, sometimes smooth and sometimes badly corrugated, with sections of loose stone and short rocky steps. It is the more popular of the routes to Song Kol, so it is generally better maintained and busier, though still a serious road after rain or snowmelt. Streams cross the track in places and the water can be deep in spring. The upper section has some steep, exposed bends where care is needed, and the weather at the top can turn quickly, with strong winds and sudden snow. In winter the road is closed and heavy snow lies on the pass until late spring.
From the top you look across to a wide upland of grass, with the lake glinting in the distance, and on a clear day the Tien Shan ranges stand around the horizon in layers of blue. The air is thin and cold, even in summer, and the silence is broken only by the wind and the whistle of marmots. It is a place for taking pictures and taking breath, in either order.
Fill the tank in Kochkor, which has stations and shops, and carry spare fuel for the plateau, since the round trip to the lake and back is long. A small shop or tea stall may appear in the villages on the way up, but do not count on it. Carry water, snacks and a warm layer, and a repair kit for the bike.
Altitude can cause headaches in people who arrive from low ground, so it is wise to spend a night or two at moderate height first. Start early, since afternoon storms are common and the descent is better done in good light.