Where the Pyhrn pass road drops from the Totes Gebirge toward the Enns and the Steyr valleys, Austria keeps one of its most important pieces of old forest. Kalkalpen National Park covers a large area of limestone mountains, gorges and woodland in Upper Austria, and its beech forests are among the last in Europe where trees have been left to grow, fall and rot undisturbed. They are part of a UNESCO listing called the Ancient Beech Forests of the Carpathians and Other Regions of Europe, a strange name for what is, in the end, a green cathedral of grey trunks and soft, filtered light.
Bodinggraben is a narrow valley that leads into this country, a wooded ravine with a stream at the bottom and steep slopes of beech, spruce and fir on each side. In such places the forest has a particular feel, thick with moss, mushrooms and fallen logs, and full of the sound of water. Lynx have been reintroduced to the area, and while you are unlikely to see one, black woodpeckers, three-toed woodpeckers and capercaillie are among the birds that live here. In autumn, the beech leaves turn a deep copper, and the whole valley glows.
The ride is a delight, with plenty of choice. The road from Windischgarsten climbs through meadows with views of the Warscheneck and the Totes Gebirge, and the Pyhrn route itself has been a main way over the mountains since Roman times, used by merchants, pilgrims and armies. The tarmac is good, the bends are moderate and the scenery changes constantly, from farmland to forest to bare rock. Cattle graze in high pastures, and traffic is generally light apart from weekends. Weather in the Alps is variable, with sudden rain and fog, and snow can linger into April.
Windischgarsten, seven kilometres away, is a small resort town with fuel, shops and cafes, and Spital am Pyhrn, a little further, has an old collegiate church. Local cheeses, smoked meats and dumplings are all good, and a hearty Kasnocken makes a good lunch. Trails lead into the park from several points, and if you leave the bike for a walk, you will understand why people feel protective of this forest.