Kalbarri is a small town on the mouth of the Murchison River, where the river meets the Indian Ocean, and it is the gateway to a national park of the same name. The park covers a huge area of sandstone plateau, cut by deep gorges that expose layers of red and white rock laid down hundreds of millions of years ago. Lookouts such as Nature's Window, a natural arch framing the river below, and the Z Bend, where the gorge folds back on itself, are the main attractions, and the Skywalk platforms stick out into the void for those with a head for heights.
The town has around two and a half thousand people and a welcoming, beach-holiday feel. The estuary is a good place for swimming and paddling, and pelicans are fed on the foreshore each morning, drawing a crowd. Fuel, food and accommodation are all available, and there are cafes serving fresh fish, though prices rise in school holidays. South of town, the Zuytdorp Cliffs, where a Dutch ship of that name was wrecked in 1712, run along the coast for miles, and the sea crashes against them with great force.
The road from the highway to Kalbarri is a long spur of about sixty kilometres, and the wind can be strong, so be prepared for a fight with the weather. In spring, from August to October, the wildflowers bloom across the sandplains in a riot of colour, and the whole region is at its best. Summer is hot, very hot, and gorge walks are best done at dawn, with plenty of water.
Wildlife includes kangaroos, emus and a rich bird life, particularly around the river and the wetlands. At dusk, take care on the roads, because kangaroos are active and unpredictable. The ocean is beautiful but rips and currents can be dangerous, so swim only at patrolled or protected spots. After a day of riding, a cold drink and a sunset over the water are hard to beat.