The Kakrak Valley opens a few kilometres east of Bamiyan town, a side gorge cut into the same pale cliff that holds the famous niches, and it keeps a smaller sibling of the giants. Here, in a recess high in the rock, stood a Buddha of perhaps six metres, much smaller than the two colossi of the main valley but of the same period, and it too was damaged in 2001. The cliffs are riddled with caves, which were monks' cells, chapels and storerooms in the centuries when Bamiyan was a Buddhist monastic centre on the Silk Road, and some retain traces of painted ceilings.
The valley sits at about 2,500 metres in the central Hindu Kush, a high and dry landscape of ochre cliffs, green strips of poplar and wheat along the stream, and snow-capped peaks beyond. In the sixth and seventh centuries, Chinese pilgrims passed through, and one of them described gold and jewels on the big statues. Later research showed that some cave murals were painted in oil, centuries before the technique became known in Europe, which surprised art historians. The air is clear and thin, and the light on the rock is soft at dawn and dusk.
Reaching it is a journey. The road from Kabul crosses mountain passes of nearly three thousand metres, through gorges and past mud-brick villages, and reaches Bamiyan after a long day. Surfaces range from asphalt to broken stretches and gravel, with sudden weather changes in the mountains and the risk of landslides after heavy rain or snow. Any plan to travel in Afghanistan has to start with current official advice, since conditions and permissions change, and local knowledge is essential.
For practical matters, Bamiyan town, about two kilometres away, has simple guesthouses, small restaurants serving kebabs, bread and tea, and a bazaar. Fuel is limited and often more expensive than in Kabul, so carry extra on the road. Dress modestly and ask before photographing people. Bring layers, since nights are cold even in summer, and drink plenty of water to cope with the altitude. Walking in the valley means staying on marked paths, because unexploded munitions remain in some areas.