Kagbeni stands at 2,800 metres where the Jhong Khola stream joins the Kali Gandaki, and it is the last village before Upper Mustang, the old Tibetan-style kingdom of Lo, which was closed to foreigners until 1992 and still requires a special, costly permit. The village is a cluster of mud-brick houses, painted in earth reds and whites, huddled together with narrow lanes, covered passages and flat roofs stacked with firewood. Above it stands a red-walled monastery, Kag Chode, with its prayer wheels and low doorways, and the fields around are terraced and irrigated with water brought from the river by channels, a green patch in a landscape of grey and ochre.
It feels like the edge of the world, and in many ways it is. North of here the valley opens onto the dry Tibetan plateau, and the character of the land changes at once: bare cliffs eroded into fantastic shapes, caves cut into the rock, and a sky of astonishing clarity. The people are Tibetan in language and religion, and their houses, monasteries and customs are close to those on the other side of the border. Prayer flags and mani walls, which are long walls of stones carved with Buddhist mantras, line the paths, and you pass them on the left, as tradition requires.
The road that reaches here is tough going. It follows the river bed in places, crossing the stream, and can be blocked by water or rockfall. Wind is a daily event, strong enough to blow grit and stop you from keeping a line. The track beyond the village is rough, and for most riders the village is the end of the route. You will need to check the rules for riding in Upper Mustang, since permits, guides and regulations apply and change.
Jomsom, a short way south, has the nearest services, but even there, fuel can be hard to find. Food in the village is simple, with noodles, momos and tea, and guesthouses offer basic rooms with thick blankets. Apples, apricots and walnuts grow here, and in autumn the harvest is drying on the roofs. The nights can be freezing, so a warm layer is essential, and the altitude can cause headaches, so rest and drink water.