Kabul lies at about 1,800 metres, in a basin ringed by the bare, dun-coloured ridges of the Hindu Kush foothills, with the Kabul River slipping through the middle. It is one of the oldest cities in Central Asia, and has been a crossing point of empires for thousands of years. Babur, the founder of the Mughal dynasty, loved the place so much that he asked to be buried in a garden here, and Bagh-e Babur, on a slope on the south-west side of the city, was restored in the 2000s and remains a calm, terraced green space with a small mosque and a pavilion. The old citadel of Bala Hissar stands on a ridge above the city.
The weather is dry and bright, with hot summers and cold winters, and the air carries wood smoke and dust. The city is crowded, with traffic of every kind, markets, small workshops and the famous bird market at Ka Faroshi. The National Museum, badly damaged during the wars, has been partly restored and holds Bronze Age, Buddhist and Islamic pieces, and the Bamiyan region, a long day's drive to the west, was the site of the two great Buddhas destroyed in 2001.
The roads out of Kabul climb steeply. The route to Bamiyan leaves the capital westward, through the Maidan valley and then over the Unai Pass at over 3,000 metres, or via the Shibar Pass at about 2,700 metres, with dramatic gorges and hairpins. Surfaces vary from decent asphalt to broken sections and gravel, and weather can bring snow and landslides. Fuel is available in towns along the way but is limited, so top up in Kabul and carry spare. Travel conditions in Afghanistan are subject to serious security and political restrictions, and anyone thinking of travelling should consult current official advice and local contacts before making any plans.
Practically, Kabul has fuel stations, workshops and restaurants serving kebabs, rice dishes and strong green tea, and the markets are good places for dried fruit and nuts. Pace is slow on the outskirts, where trucks and donkey carts share the road. Dress modestly and respect local customs, and always ask before taking photographs. Leave early in the day, because the mountain roads are best driven in daylight.