The Blue Mosque of Tabriz, known as the Kabood or Goy Masjid, was finished in 1465 under Jahan Shah, the ruler of the Qara Qoyunlu dynasty, who made Tabriz his capital. In its day it was said to be one of the most beautiful buildings in the Islamic world, covered in glazed tiles of deep turquoise and blue, with gold lettering, and the traveller who saw it called it the turquoise of Islam. An earthquake in 1779 brought it down, and what you see now is the result of a long restoration in the twentieth century.
The façade is the best part. The entrance portal is a tall, pointed arch with a rich mosaic of tiles in blues, greens and white, and inside, the main hall has a central dome and lots of fine tilework with a floral design. The dome chamber was built to be an extraordinary space, and parts of the original tiles can still be seen on the walls. A garden-like courtyard outside offers a place to sit, and the whole is easy to visit in about an hour.
The mosque stands about a kilometre from the centre of Tabriz, in an old quarter where streets are narrow and congested, with a good deal of one-way traffic. On a bike it is easy to get close, but you will probably have to leave it on the street or in a car park nearby. Plan to arrive in the morning, when the light on the tiles is best and the crowd is thinner. Dress modestly, and women will need to cover their hair.
Tabriz has fuel stations on every main road, and a wide range of food and lodging. Near the mosque, small tea houses sell strong tea, sweets and bread with cheese and walnuts, and in the evening the nearby streets fill with families. If you come in winter, bring warm clothes, as the climate here is cold and dry, and spring brings the freshest air. Photography is generally allowed inside the mosque, but ask first if you are unsure.