Kabah is the sister of Uxmal, about eighteen kilometres to the south, and it was linked to it by a raised stone causeway, a sacbe, that ran straight through the forest. A monumental arch with a corbelled vault still stands at the point where the road once left Kabah toward Uxmal, a lonely frame in the trees, and it marks the start of a story about power and ritual that few visitors fully take in.
The main building is the Codz Poop, the Palace of Masks. Its facade is covered, from end to end, with several hundred stone masks of Chaac, the rain god, each made of small carved pieces fitted together like a mosaic, with long noses curling out from the wall. The effect is hypnotic and slightly strange, since many of the noses have broken off over the centuries and lie in rows at the base. The sheer repetition is a statement of the people's reliance on rain.
Kabah sits at the start of the Puuc Route, a loop of small ruined cities, Sayil, Xlapak and Labna, with the Loltun caves, an old limestone cave system with traces of ancient habitation, a little way beyond. The road between is quiet and winding, with forest closing on both sides, making it a good ride for exploring in a day. Surfaces are generally good, with the odd pothole, and there is almost no traffic apart from tour vehicles.
The nearest sizeable town is Ticul, about twenty kilometres away, a lively place known for shoes and ceramics, with petrol stations, markets and small restaurants. Santa Elena, closer, has a few basic services. Entry to the site is cheap and the opening hours are daytime only. Heat and humidity are strong, so carry water and wear a hat. In the rainy season, mosquitoes appear, so repellent is useful. Enjoy the quiet, since Kabah is often empty.