Kaaimans River Pass is the opening movement of the Seven Passes Road, a route that the great Cape road builder Thomas Bain laid out in the nineteenth century to link George with Knysna by way of a sequence of river gorges. It is only about a hundred metres above sea level here, but the road descends and climbs through a deep, wooded valley with a character all of its own. The river itself is dark, tea-coloured from the tannins in the fynbos and forest, and winds toward the Indian Ocean through a landscape of green slopes and shadowy gullies.
The gorge is lush with indigenous forest, thick with yellowwood, stinkwood, and tree ferns, and the air is damp and cool even on a hot day. The most famous feature is the railway viaduct across the river mouth near Wilderness, built for the line that once carried the Outeniqua Choo-Tjoe steam train along the coast. The line is a part of local memory, and the old bridge still stands against the sea. The lagoons and beaches nearby are among the loveliest on the Garden Route.
For a rider, the pass is a gentle introduction. The road dips into the gorge with a series of bends, crosses the river on an old bridge, and climbs the far side, with the forest closing in. The surface is generally good, but the damp can leave patches slick, especially under trees, and leaf litter and the occasional fallen branch can be hazards. Traffic is steady, with trucks and tourists, and there are cyclists as well. Early morning light through the canopy is lovely, and the sound of birdsong is constant.
Fuel is easy: George, about eight kilometres to the north-west, is the biggest town on the Garden Route's western end and has stations, supermarkets, and restaurants. Wilderness, a short distance south, has cafes and a beautiful beach, and the whole stretch is well served. Rain can arrive at any time of year, and the Garden Route is greener for it. Spring and autumn are the most comfortable seasons, and winter days can be crisp and clear. Keep an eye on the weather over the mountains, and a spare layer in the bag.