Jureia-Itatins is a rare piece of coast. Between the sea and the Serra dos Itatins, in the south of São Paulo state, a long stretch of Atlantic Forest runs down to the beach with few roads and almost no development, and the ecological station that protects it is one of the largest remaining blocks of coastal forest in the state. The land rises from white sand and mangrove to wet forest on the ridges, with rivers running out through the trees to the sea, and the whole thing is so thick and green that satellite pictures show it as a dark patch among the paler towns.
The reserve is strictly protected, and most of it is closed to ordinary visitors, with entry only for research and for managed access to some areas. That is the point. Fishing communities, the caiçaras, have lived on this coast for centuries, mixing Indigenous, Portuguese and African traditions, and their way of life, with cassava flour, fishing canoes and their own songs, is part of the story of the place. Peruíbe, the nearest town, is a seaside resort of about sixty thousand people, known for the black mud of its river, which locals say has healing properties, and for a long beach and a quiet, old-fashioned feel.
Riding here is a matter of finding the roads that touch the edge. The coast road from Peruíbe runs through a mix of town, beach settlement and forest, with some bends and mostly good surface, and on the way you pass banana plantations and small farms. Beach access roads are narrow, often sandy, and prone to flooding. A trip to the beach at Guaraú, where a river falls over the rocks toward the sea, is a standard excursion. The weather is warm and humid for most of the year, rain falls heavily in summer, and the cooler months of May to September are best.
Fuel is easy in Peruíbe, which has stations, shops and restaurants. Fish is fresh, with moqueca, a stew of fish, coconut milk and palm oil, the dish to try. Carry sun cream, repellent and a rain layer, and keep the bike away from salt spray when you can. Respect the park boundaries and rules, because enforcement is real, and the forest is far more valuable standing than as a short cut.