Jungmun is the resort coast of southern Jeju, a strip of beaches, hotels and cliffs on the sheltered side of the island, and it holds some of the island's most unusual scenery. The beach at Jungmun is known for its sand, which is a mixture of black, white, grey and reddish grains, made of crushed basalt and shell, and gives the shore a coloured, speckled look. The sea beyond is a popular spot for surfers when the swell comes in from the south. Behind the beach, lines of palms and manicured resort grounds run up the slope, and the whole thing has a faintly Hawaiian feel.
The geological highlight is a short walk away. The Jusangjeolli Cliff, a wall of hexagonal basalt columns that stand like stacked pillars along the shore, was formed when a lava flow cooled and cracked into regular shapes, and the waves crash against it in great sprays. It looks like the work of masons, but it is nature's. Nearby, the Cheonjeyeon Falls tumble in three stages through a green gorge, and other waterfalls on the south coast, fed by water that filters through the volcanic rock, are a pleasant break from the heat. Mount Halla, the great volcano that forms the spine of Jeju at nearly two thousand metres, stands over the island, and on a clear day its summit is visible from the coast.
The ride along the south coast is a pleasure. The roads run through tangerine orchards, past stone walls and beside the sea, with views of the ocean and small islands, and the surface is good. Traffic is steadier than in the north, because of the resorts, and tour buses and rental cars can slow things, but it is still easy riding. Wind and sudden showers are common, so a waterproof layer helps. In summer the humidity can be high.
Seogwipo, the second city of the island about fourteen kilometres away, has the nearest large stations, supermarkets and restaurants, and a famous open-air market. Local food includes grilled black pork, raw fish, sea urchin and the sweet tangerines, and hot noodles in the cooler months. Hotels and guesthouses are plentiful, though prices peak in July and August.
Jeju is known as the island of three abundances, which are stones, wind and women, and a ride along this coast shows the first two within minutes. For the third, watch for the divers.