The two white towers of Jumièges rise above the trees in a loop of the Seine, roofless, ragged and astonishing. Founded in the seventh century by Saint Philibert, the Benedictine abbey was sacked by Vikings, rebuilt by the dukes of Normandy, and consecrated in 1067 in the presence of William the Conqueror, freshly crowned king of England. After the French Revolution it was sold off and used as a stone quarry, and what remains is often called the most beautiful ruin in France. Walking through the empty nave, open to the sky, with jackdaws circling the towers, it is hard to disagree.
The abbey sits inside one of the great meanders of the lower Seine, in the regional nature park of the Boucles de la Seine Normande. The river here is wide and tidal, carrying ships to and from Rouen, and the meander loops are filled with orchards, meadows and marshes. The road along the river from Duclair to Jumièges is known as the Route des Fruits, lined with apple and cherry orchards and stalls selling cider, juice and fruit in season.
The riding is gentle and lovely, with roads following the river and climbing onto the chalk cliffs that frame the valley. Small ferries cross the Seine at several points, free of charge and a delightful way to change banks. Traffic is light, but cyclists are common, and the roads can be narrow.
Jumièges village has cafés and restaurants catering to visitors, but fuel is limited in the meander. Fill up in Duclair, on the edge of the loop, or in the Rouen suburbs. Allow at least an hour for the abbey, and try the local cider or a slice of apple tart afterwards. The light in late afternoon is especially beautiful on the white stone.