Joseph is a small town at the foot of a very large mountain range. The Wallowa Mountains, sometimes called the Alps of Oregon, rise sharply behind it, with snow on the high summits for much of the year and a long glacial lake, Wallowa Lake, tucked into the valley mouth just south of town. It is a place that feels a long way from anywhere, in the far northeastern corner of the state, at the end of a long road that runs up through Enterprise and has no real continuation.
The town takes its name from Chief Joseph, the Nez Perce leader whose people, the Wallowa band, lived in this valley long before settlers arrived. In 1877 the government's demand that they leave for a reservation in Idaho led to a conflict and a long, desperate retreat of more than a thousand miles, which ended in Montana just short of the Canadian border. Chief Joseph's speech of surrender is remembered, and the Nez Perce still have a presence in the valley. His father, Old Chief Joseph, is buried by the lake. It is a story worth knowing before you arrive.
For a rider, the Hells Canyon Scenic Byway loop begins here, and the approach is the best bit: the road crosses a broad, flat valley of ranches and hayfields with the mountains filling the horizon. It is a gentle ride, with long straights and easy bends, and the real excitement lies ahead on the climbs and descents toward the canyon. Weather can turn cold even in summer, and winter closes some of the more remote routes. The summer months are the best, with warm days and cool nights, and autumn brings golden larches higher up.
Joseph itself is a pleasant little place, with a main street lined with bronze statues, a nod to the foundries that work here, along with galleries, cafes, a brewery and a few shops. It has fuel, and so does Enterprise, about nine kilometres away, which is slightly larger and has a supermarket and more services. Motels and cabins are available but fill up in summer. If you can, ride out to Wallowa Lake in the evening, when the light is low and the mountains turn pink.