José Ignacio is a fishing village that fashion found, a scattering of low houses, sand lanes and a lighthouse on a small peninsula east of Punta del Este, where the Uruguayan coast turns wild. For decades it was a quiet place of fishermen and a few summer cottages, and some of that spirit remains in the unpaved streets, the old boats pulled up on the beach and the whitewashed church. Today it also has stylish restaurants and discreet hotels that draw visitors from Buenos Aires and São Paulo in summer, and it is quiet and nearly empty in winter.
The lighthouse, built in 1877, stands at the tip of the point, a white tower with a keeper's house, and the view from it takes in the Atlantic, the long beaches to either side and a line of surf. Offshore, whales can be seen between July and November, and sea lions haul out on the rocks. Just inland, Laguna Garzón is a shallow coastal lagoon bridged by a remarkable circular bridge, opened in 2015, which loops in a ring so that drivers slow down and enjoy the view of water and birds.
Riding here is a matter of long, flat coastal roads. Ruta 10 runs along the coast from Punta del Este toward La Paloma and Cabo Polonio, a narrow, sometimes rough two-lane with low dunes on one side and farmland on the other. The wind off the Atlantic is strong, and crosswinds can push a light bike around, so keep a firm grip. In summer, the road fills with holiday traffic, so aim for spring or autumn, when the sea is calm and the roads are quiet.
Fuel is the thing to plan: the nearest large town is San Carlos, about twenty-seven kilometres inland, and Maldonado and Punta del Este have plenty of stations. Fill the tank before heading east. Food is excellent, with fresh fish and grilled meat, and the local lamb is famous. In the evening, the sun goes down behind the land, but the sky over the sea glows. Wear layers, since the wind is cool even on warm days, and carry some local currency.