Jordan Pond is one of the loveliest bodies of water in Maine, a deep, clear lake cut by glaciers and ringed with spruce and granite. At the far end two rounded hills called the Bubbles rise like a pair of bumps on the skyline, and the water is so clear that you can see boulders far below the surface. It is a place where rides slow down, because the setting asks for it and because the car park beside the lake is usually busy.
On the lawn above the water, the Jordan Pond House has served tea and popovers since the late nineteenth century, a ritual that visitors still follow. The original building burned in 1979 and was replaced, but the tradition survived, and sitting on the grass with a warm popover and a view of the Bubbles is one of the standard pleasures of the island. In summer the tables fill early and the wait can be long, so go before noon or in mid-afternoon. A walking path circles the lake in about three miles and gives a gentler pace than the road.
Riding to the pond is part of the experience, since the Park Loop Road approaches along the base of the mountains with views through the trees. The road is smooth and carefully engineered, with granite curbs, low stone bridges and a speed limit that discourages heroics. Parts of the loop are one-way, so read the signs. Traffic can be heavy, and cyclists, buses and drivers who are looking at the scenery all need patience.
Fuel is in Bar Harbor, a short run away, and Ellsworth has more. Nothing at the pond sells petrol, only food and souvenirs. October is a favourite time, when the hills turn red and orange and the water is dark and still. Bring a layer, since it can be cool beside the lake even on a warm day, and allow at least an hour.