Jogashima is an island at the very southern tip of the Miura peninsula, joined to the mainland by a short bridge, and the end of the road in a literal sense. A narrow lane drops through fields of cabbage and radish and a scatter of fishing houses, passes the small town of Misaki, and crosses the bridge to a rocky islet with a lighthouse, a headland path and a view of the open Pacific. On a clear day, the low shape of Izu Oshima appears on the horizon, and freighters slide across the mouth of Tokyo Bay below.
The lighthouse, first lit in the early Meiji years, was one of several built by the British engineer Richard Henry Brunton for the new government, which wanted to make the dangerous waters around Japan safe for foreign ships. The tower on the island today is a later rebuild, but the site is the original. A walk around the rocky shore leads to a sea arch and cliffs of layered sandstone, carved by waves into curious shapes, and the tide pools are full of small crabs and anemones.
Misaki, close to the bridge, is among Japan's best-known tuna ports. The harbour lands fish from far-flung fleets, and the town's restaurants serve tuna in every form: raw, grilled, fried, and as rice bowls with thick slices of dark red flesh. A meal at one of the small places near the harbour is the high point for many riders, and the price is generally fair. Fresh fish is the rule, so do not expect elaborate dishes, just very good ingredients. The fish market opens early, and the best time to visit is in the morning.
Miura has about fifty thousand people and its fuel stations lie along the main road, so fill up there before crossing to the island. Parking on Jogashima is limited and tends to fill up quickly at weekends, but motorbikes are usually squeezed in. Wind blows constantly and can be strong, so be careful on the exposed bridge. Drinking water and toilets are available near the lighthouse, and the shops sell cold drinks and ice cream. In autumn and winter, the light is clear and the air cool, and a late-afternoon visit gives you the sun setting over the sea.