Jododaira, the name means Pure Land plain, and it is easy to see why. At about 1,600 metres on the Bandai-Azuma Skyline, the road crosses a high volcanic moor, a wide open space of grass, low shrubs and bare grey rock, with the steaming cone of Mount Issaikyo rising to one side. The ground smells faintly of sulphur, and wisps of white vapour drift from vents on the slopes. It feels like a different planet from the lowlands around Fukushima, and the name comes from Buddhist ideas of paradise.
The Skyline is a high road that links Fukushima city, via the hot spring village of Tsuchiyu, with the Bandai area to the south, and it crosses the shoulder of the Azuma volcanic range. It is one of the best mountain drives in the Tohoku region, with views over the whole of the Fukushima basin on one side and the wild country of the Azuma range on the other. Opening dates vary, but the road typically opens in late April, when the snow walls beside the road can still be several metres high, and closes in early November.
Behind the visitor centre, a boardwalk leads across the wetland, and a short trail climbs to the rim of Azuma-Kofuji, a small old crater where the ground is bare and cinder-red. The flora is alpine, with dwarf pines, cotton grass and in summer a scattering of wildflowers, and in autumn the slopes turn from green to copper and crimson in a few weeks, usually in early October at this height. Mount Issaikyo itself is active and can be closed to visitors when gas levels rise, so check before you walk.
The road has hairpins and long, smooth bends, with good tarmac and clear sightlines, and it is an easy but memorable ride. Be prepared for fog, wind and cold, since conditions can change in minutes. A small restaurant and shop near the visitor centre offers snacks and hot drinks, but opening hours are limited. Carry warm clothes, even in July, and be careful on the descent, where brakes work hard. Late September and early October bring the best colours and clear air.