Above the small county town of Goryeong, in south-eastern Korea, a line of grassy burial mounds runs along the ridge of Jusan mountain like the knuckles of a giant hand. These are the Jisan-dong tumuli, tombs of the rulers and elite of Daegaya, the most powerful member of the Gaya confederacy, a group of small kingdoms that flourished in the south of the peninsula until they were absorbed by Silla in the sixth century. The largest mounds are huge, and excavations found not only rich grave goods, iron weapons, armour, gold crowns and pottery, but also evidence that attendants were buried with their lords. Together with other Gaya tomb groups, the site was added to the World Heritage list in 2023.
Walking along the ridge between the mounds at sunset, with the town below and the hills folding away in every direction, is one of the quiet pleasures of Korea. A museum at the foot of the hill explains the culture, including a reconstruction of one of the sacrificial burials. Gaya is also remembered for music: the gayageum, the twelve-stringed zither that is still the classic Korean instrument, is said to have been created here, and Goryeong has a museum devoted to it.
A crucial piece of local knowledge for riders: motorcycles are not allowed on Korean expressways. That means you will be travelling on national and provincial roads, which in this part of the country is no punishment. West of Goryeong the roads climb into the Gayasan mountains towards Haeinsa, the great temple that holds the Tripitaka Koreana, more than eighty thousand wooden printing blocks carved in the thirteenth century. The route there twists through forest and along valleys, especially beautiful in autumn when the maples turn red. Expect speed cameras, sudden speed bumps in villages and the occasional bus taking more than its share of the road.
Goryeong town, at the foot of the tombs, has fuel, convenience stores and restaurants, and Daegu, one of Korea's largest cities, is only a short ride north-east if you need more. Korean roadside food is excellent and cheap: try a bowl of hot soup with rice and side dishes at any small restaurant, or a set of grilled pork with a mountain of fresh leaves to wrap it in.