Jinshan sits on the north coast of Taiwan, a short ride from Taipei, and it has the look and feel of a place with several identities. It is a hot-spring town, with sulphur water that bubbles up from the volcanic hills of Yangmingshan behind it. It is a beach town, with a long strip of dark sand that fills with swimmers in summer. And it is a food town, where the local specialities are sweet potatoes, duck, and the street snacks sold along the old street, from fried dough to taro balls.
The coast itself is a mixture of rock and sand. To the east, the shoreline is cut by headlands and bays, with rock platforms washed by the sea, and to the west it is a long, gentle curve of beach, with the green hills rising directly behind. The Yangmingshan massif, a group of dormant volcanoes, is a national park above the town, with steaming vents, sulphur deposits and, in winter, a regular veil of mist. The weather on the north coast is changeable: in winter, the northeast monsoon brings grey skies, cold wind and drizzle, while in summer it is hot and humid, with typhoons from July to October.
The coastal road, Provincial Highway 2, is a pleasure to ride when the weather is good. It follows the shore with curves and short climbs, passing fishing harbours, rocky capes and small temples, and the sea is visible for much of the way. Traffic is a hazard, particularly at weekends when Taipei empties onto the coast, and the roads are crowded with scooters, buses and tour groups. The surface is generally good, but salt air and rain mean damp patches and loose grit, so be careful on the bends. In the early morning, the road is quiet and the light is lovely.
The swimming beaches have lifeguards in summer, and the sea can have strong currents, so respect the flags. Fuel and food are easy, with stations and shops in the town and along the coast, and Keelung, fourteen kilometres to the east, is a large port city with everything you could want. Autumn, from October to December, is the best season, with clear skies and a warm sea, though winter weekdays have a quiet charm of their own.