Jeti Oguz means seven bulls, and the name belongs to a line of rust-red sandstone cliffs that rise above a pine-dotted valley on the southern side of Lake Issyk-Kul, in the Tien Shan mountains of eastern Kyrgyzstan. The cliffs are jagged and stacked side by side, and local legend says they are the petrified remains of seven bulls. A second formation, a red rock split down the middle in the shape of a heart, is known as the Broken Heart, and it is surrounded by a story of two rival suitors and a murdered khan that every guide tells slightly differently.
The valley sits at around 2,200 metres, and the air is clear and cool, scented with spruce and mountain grass. Soviet-era sanatoriums, which used the mineral springs and clean air to treat holidaymakers, still stand beside the river, some in use and some falling into ruin, giving the valley a faintly melancholy air. In summer, shepherds' families set up yurts on the high pastures, called jailoo, and herds of horses, sheep and cattle graze across the slopes. You can often buy kymyz, fermented mare's milk, or fresh bread and honey at a yurt, and the hospitality is generous.
The road to the valley leaves the lake shore near Kyzyl-Suu and follows a stream upward, paved at first and then increasingly rough, with loose stones, potholes and fords. It is not a difficult ride in summer, but in wet weather or after snow it can be demanding, and you should be prepared for river crossings in early summer when snowmelt is high. The mountains above hold snow well into July.
Karakol, about twenty-two kilometres away, is the nearest large town, with fuel stations, shops and guesthouses, and Kyzyl-Suu, closer, is smaller but has basic services.
Finishing here, among red cliffs, spruce and grazing horses, is a satisfying end to the ride around the lake. Take time to walk among the trees, and try a bowl of hot lagman noodles from a roadside cafe before heading back.