Jerusalem sits on a ridge about seven hundred and fifty metres above the sea, and the air is cooler and drier than on the coast, with a light that turns the pale limestone of the buildings to gold at the end of the day. The Old City, enclosed by walls built by the Ottoman sultan Suleiman in the sixteenth century, is a dense maze of lanes, markets and domes, divided traditionally into four quarters, and sacred to Jews, Christians and Muslims. The Dome of the Rock gleams above the Temple Mount, the Western Wall stands at its foot, and the Church of the Holy Sepulchre holds the places traditionally linked to the crucifixion and burial of Jesus.
The best view is from the Mount of Olives, to the east, looking back across the valley at the walls. For a walk in the Old City, go early, before the heat and the crowds, and move slowly, as the stone steps are worn and the lanes steep. Dress modestly in the holy places. On Friday, the markets are busy, and on Saturday, many parts of the Jewish districts are quiet.
For riders, the city is hilly and intense. The roads wind over the ridges, the traffic is quick and the horn is used freely, and the old streets are narrow. The afternoon ride heads south toward Hebron, known in Arabic as Al-Khalil, whose old town is listed by UNESCO and holds the traditional tomb of the patriarchs. This route crosses into the West Bank, and conditions on it can change rapidly, so check current travel advice, expect checkpoints and consider whether you have the right permits and insurance before setting out.
Fuel is available throughout the city. Try a plate of hummus with warm pita, or a fresh pastry from a bakery, and sip sweet mint tea. Winter nights can be cold, even with snow on rare occasions, while summer days are hot and dry. Carry water, wear sunscreen and keep your identification with you. The city asks for patience and respect from a visitor, and it repays them with a sense of history unlike any other.