Jeongneung is a royal tomb in the middle of Seoul, in the wooded hills of Seongbuk district just north of the old city, and it carries one of the more spiteful stories of the early Joseon court. It belongs to Queen Sindeok, the second wife of the dynasty's founder, King Taejo. Her son was named crown prince ahead of Taejo's older sons by his first wife, and one of those older sons, Yi Bang-won, struck back violently, killing his half-brothers and eventually taking the throne as King Taejong.
Sindeok had died before all this, and Taejo had buried her in a fine tomb inside the city. Once Taejong was in power, he had it moved out to what was then the countryside, beyond the walls, and reduced its status. Stone pieces from the original tomb were reused in Gwangtonggyo, a bridge over the Cheonggyecheon stream, where people would walk over them every day. Some of those carved stones can still be seen there. The tomb was only restored to proper honours centuries later.
Today Jeongneung is a quiet, forested place, much smaller and more intimate than most of the Joseon royal tombs, with a path leading up through tall trees to the mound on its hillside. It sits on the lower slopes of Bugaksan and the ridges leading toward Bukhansan National Park, and walking trails head up into the hills from nearby. In spring the azaleas and cherry blossoms light up the slopes; in autumn the maples turn red and the city below seems a long way away.
The riding is city riding, through a dense, hilly district of apartment blocks and narrow streets. Seoul traffic is fast and impatient, buses have priority lanes, and motorcycles are not allowed on Korean expressways or on the urban expressways that ring the city, so plan routes along ordinary roads. The roads that wind over the ridges north of the centre can be enjoyable in the early morning, with views back over the old city and the palaces.
Fuel, food and coffee are everywhere. The neighbourhoods around Seongbuk have traditional houses, small museums and good restaurants, and a bowl of naengmyeon, cold buckwheat noodles in icy broth, is welcome after a hot climb in summer. Afterwards, ride down into the city and look for Gwangtonggyo, to see a queen's grave stones under your feet.