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Jelling Mounds

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Denmark's most important field is Jelling, which has two large grass mounds, a medieval church standing between them, and two carved runestones that count among the most important monuments of the country. The stones were raised in the tenth century. The smaller one was made by King Gorm the Old in memory of his wife Thyra, and the larger, with a crucified Christ on one face, was made by his son Harald Bluetooth, who boasted that he had won all of Denmark and Norway and made the Danes Christian. That is why it is often called the birth certificate of the nation. Harald's nickname, incidentally, is where the Bluetooth wireless logo comes from, a bind-rune of his initials.

The setting is gentle, rolling green country in the middle of Jutland, not far from the head of the Vejle Fjord. The church is white and small, and the mounds are big enough to make you look twice. There is a modern visitor centre next to the site, which does a good job of explaining the Viking royal seat, so allow an hour even if you are only on the ride for the scenery.

The riding around Jelling is some of the easiest in Europe. Roads are well kept, quiet and mostly gently winding, with long views over fields and the occasional wooded valley. There are few really challenging bends, but the scenery is soft and green, and early summer evenings are lovely. Speed limits are enforced firmly here, with cameras and a police presence on the main roads, so treat the limits seriously.

Jelling has about three thousand people, enough for fuel and food, and Vejle, nine kilometres east, is a proper town of over fifty thousand with everything you might need. The famous Hærvejen, the old Army Road, runs not far away, and reminds you that this was an ancient crossing of the peninsula long before the kings arrived. It is a dignified, slightly understated place that gets better the longer you look.

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