Jeli is a small place on the eastern side of the Malaysian peninsula, close to the border with Thailand, and it marks the end of the East-West Highway. The highway crosses the Titiwangsa mountains and comes down to a landscape of rubber plantations, small villages and rice fields in Kelantan, a state with a distinct Malay culture. There is not much in Jeli itself; the nearest sizeable town is Tanah Merah, about thirty-six kilometres away, and just across the Thai border is Su-ngai Kolok. The Jeli area is known for its Gunung Reng and hot springs.
Kelantan is regarded as the heartland of traditional Malay culture. It is known for shadow puppetry, wayang kulit, and for batik, kite-making, silverwork and the dance and music of the region. The state is conservative, and the pace of life is slower than on the west coast. Food is sweet and rich: nasi kerabu, rice coloured blue with butterfly pea flowers, served with herbs, fish and coconut, and nasi dagang, rice cooked in coconut milk. Roadside stalls sell sweet snacks and fresh coconut water.
For the rider, the highway descends from the mountains with a series of long, easy curves, through forest and then plantation. Monkeys, snakes and the odd elephant are a possibility, and the road can be wet and slippery after storms. The monsoon on the east coast, from November to February, brings heavy rain and flooding, and roads can be cut, so avoid those months. In the dry season, the heat can be strong, and early starts are advised.
Fuel is available in Jeli, but stations are less common than on the west coast, so fill up when you can. Facilities are basic, with small restaurants and some guesthouses, and cash is useful. A short distance away, the Lake Banding area and Royal Belum Park are noted for nature, birdwatching and rafting. The end of the highway offers a calm finish to the crossing, a sense of having moved from one side of the country to the other, from the busy west to the traditional east.