The Jektvik to Kilboghamn crossing is part of the Helgeland coastal route, Fv17, and the boat carries cars and bikes over a sound that marks, at its centre, the line of 66 degrees 33 minutes north, so a motorcycle can cross into the Arctic on a ferry deck with a coffee in hand. Beyond the water, the mountains of Meløy and the great Svartisen glacier lie waiting.
Jektvik itself is a tiny community, a few houses, a quay and a ferry waiting room, on a steep shore. The surrounding landscape is brutal and beautiful, with sheer mountains, fjords and a coast broken into thousands of islands. Svartisen, the second largest glacier in mainland Norway, lies to the north-east, and an arm of the ice, Engabreen, reaches almost to sea level. Small boats cross the lake in front of it. Fishing, fish farming and tourism sustain the district, and the people are friendly but spread thin.
The riding on Fv17 is among the best in Norway. The road follows the coast through tunnels and over bridges, with sharp bends, steep climbs and long views of the sea and mountains. The surface is mostly good, but the road is narrow in places, with little room for error. Ferries are an essential part of the route, so check timetables, since they can be infrequent, particularly outside summer. Rain and wind are common, and fog can roll in from the sea.
Food is limited, though the ferry may have a small kiosk. Carry water, snacks and spare layers, and keep your phone charged. In midsummer, the sun does not set, and a late ride across the Arctic Circle in golden light is an unforgettable experience.