Jeju is a volcano that has decided to be an island. Rising from the sea about ninety kilometres south of the Korean mainland, it is crowned by Hallasan, an extinct volcano of 1,947 metres, the highest peak in South Korea, with a crater lake at the top and a skirt of about three hundred smaller cones scattered across the landscape. UNESCO listed the island's volcanic landscapes and lava tubes in 2007, and the combination of black basalt, green fields and blue sea is the island's signature.
The island has its own culture, and a distinctive look. Walls of black volcanic stone divide the fields and edge the roads, protecting crops from the wind, and stone grandfather statues with bulging eyes stand guard at the roadside. The haenyeo, women divers who plunge into the cold sea without breathing apparatus to gather shellfish, are a living tradition recognised by UNESCO, and some of them sell their catch at small stalls by the shore. The local pork, from black pigs, and the tangerines, grown on every slope, are the island's food. The weather is changeable, windy and often misty.
For a rider, Jeju is a joy. The coastal road circles the island, with views of sea and cliffs, and the mountain roads that climb toward Hallasan run through forests of deciduous and evergreen trees, with long curves and frequent clouds. Traffic can be heavy near the city of Jeju, which has over four hundred thousand people, and tourist buses crowd the main sites, so get an early start. Winds on the coast can be strong, and rain may arrive suddenly, with fog on the higher roads.
Carry a rain jacket, and respect the speed limits, since cameras are common. Spring brings yellow rapeseed flowers, and autumn brings silver grass on the volcanic cones. Take time to look at the stone walls and the way the light changes.