Jeju is a volcanic island off the southern tip of Korea, and Jeju City is its biggest town, the gateway for most visitors who arrive by air. Behind it stands Hallasan, a shield volcano reaching just under two thousand metres, and its slopes give the whole island a gentle, tilted shape. UNESCO has recognised the lava tubes and the volcanic landscape here, and a sense of dark basalt is everywhere, in the stone walls that divide the fields, in the statues called dol hareubang that stand guard in villages, and in the black rocks of the shoreline.
The island has a distinct culture from the mainland. The haenyeo, the female divers who gather seafood without breathing equipment, have worked these waters for generations, and their tradition is also protected as cultural heritage. Tangerines grow everywhere, and the island is known for black pork, abalone porridge and fresh raw fish. The wind is a regular feature, and legend says Jeju is known for three things: wind, stones and women.
For riders, the coastal road around the island is the draw, a loop of roughly two hundred kilometres that stays close to the sea and passes beaches, lava cliffs, small harbours and fields of rapeseed in spring. The surface is generally good and traffic is moderate outside holiday seasons, though tourist coaches and rental cars driven by newcomers can be unpredictable. Crosswinds on exposed sections can be strong, and rain squalls arrive quickly. Spring and autumn are the best times, and summer can be humid and typhoon-prone.
Jeju City is large enough to supply everything you need, with fuel stations, repair shops, cafes and hotels. Away from the city, villages and stations are spaced evenly around the loop, so fuel is rarely a problem, though it is wise to fill the tank before the quieter southern and western stretches. Seogwipo, on the south coast, is the other main town, about twenty-five kilometres away across the island's interior.
Speed cameras are common in Korea, including on rural roads, and the limits are marked clearly, so watch the signs. A walk through the fish market near the harbour in the evening is a good way to end the day.