Jeju is a volcanic island off the south coast of Korea, and everything on it is shaped by that fact. Hallasan, the central cone and the highest mountain in South Korea, rises to about 1,950 metres and is visible from nearly every corner of the island on a clear day, and the whole land slopes from it to the sea in long, easy lines. Jeju City, on the north coast, is the main gateway, with an airport that ranks among the busiest in the world and a harbour with ferry links to the mainland.
The people and traditions are distinct. Jeju has its own dialect, its own customs, and the haenyeo, women divers who plunge without breathing equipment to gather abalone, conch and seaweed, and who are recognised by UNESCO for their tradition. Walls of black volcanic stone divide the fields and shelter the crops from wind, and the stone grandfather figures called dolhareubang stand at gates and in tourist shops. Tangerines are grown everywhere and sold from roadside stalls.
The roads around the island are a joy to ride, with a coastal ring road circling the shore past beaches, cliffs and fishing harbours. The sea is a deep blue-green, and the land is covered in rapeseed flowers in spring and white-tipped silver grass in autumn. Wind is the main factor, sometimes strong enough to push a bike sideways on exposed stretches, and the weather changes fast. Typhoons can cause cancellations in late summer. The mountain roads that cross toward Seogwipo climb through forest and are cooler and misty.
Jeju City has fuel in abundance and plenty of restaurants. Try the island's black pork, raw fish, abalone and the sea urchin soup, or a bowl of noodles with pork bone broth. The old market near the harbour is lively in the evening, and Yongduam, a dragon-head rock on the shore near the airport, is a good place for sunset. Rent or ride early, avoid holiday weekends, and take your time.