Jebel Shams, the Mountain of the Sun, is the highest peak in Oman, at about 3,000 metres, and the road to the viewpoint brings you to the edge of Wadi Ghul, often called the Grand Canyon of Arabia. The canyon is about a kilometre deep, with walls that drop almost vertically into a gorge of ochre and grey rock, and the abandoned village of Ghul clings to a ledge far below. The plateau is cool, with a thin atmosphere and long views, and in winter, it can be cold enough for frost. The nearest towns, Rustaq, Bahla and Bayt al Awabi, are thirty kilometres or so away on the plain.
The road from the plain is steep and winding, with a section of unpaved track near the top, so it is best tackled in daylight, in dry weather. The first stretch is smooth tarmac, with tight hairpins and views over the plain, and the last part is gravel, with loose rocks and steep gradients. Riders on road bikes may find it tricky, but those on adventure bikes should manage. There are no barriers at the viewpoint, and the edge is sharp, so take care, especially with children and in wind.
The Hajar mountains were formed when the ocean floor was pushed up over the Arabian plate, and the rocks include fossilised seabed and ancient limestone. The plateau is home to Arabian tahr, a shy mountain goat, and to birds of prey, including Bonelli's eagle and lammergeier. Juniper trees grow in the highlands, and wild herbs scent the air. A walking trail, the Balcony Walk, follows the canyon rim and an old water channel to the abandoned village of Sap Bani Khamis, an easy and spectacular walk.
Fuel and food should be taken from Bahla or Nizwa, as there are no pumps on the plateau, and only a small camp or two offers refreshment. Carry water, a warm layer and a torch if you stay for sunset, because the temperature drops fast after dark. The best time is October to April, since summer is very hot on the plain. The view, which looks out into a sea of rock, is worth the climb.