Jebel Samhan is the highest part of the mountain wall that rises behind the Dhofar coast, east of Salalah, and it is one of the wildest corners of Oman. The plateau, a rolling limestone upland of about eighteen hundred metres in places, is cut by deep wadis and cliffs that fall steeply toward the Arabian Sea, and much of it is protected as a nature reserve, home to the Arabian leopard, one of the rarest big cats in the world. You are very unlikely to see one, since they are shy and few, but the idea that they are up there adds to the mood.
The area is also known for its sinkholes, one of which, Tawi Attair, is among the deepest in the world, and for its frankincense trees and ancient tombs. In the summer monsoon, the khareef, the plateau is wrapped in thick mist and the air turns cool and damp. In winter, it is clear, dry and often windy, with long views toward the sea.
The road here climbs from the coast on steep switchbacks, and the surface and the width vary, so take it slowly and check conditions locally. The gradients are steep and the bends tight, and there are long drops at the edge of the road, so a loaded bike needs to be well handled. Camels and goats wander onto the tarmac. In the khareef the road may be wet and foggy, and in the heat of summer the engine can suffer on the long climb.
There are no services up here, and the nearest fuel is on the coast, at Mirbat or Taqah, or in Salalah, so fill the tank before the climb. Water and food should be carried, since the plateau is empty and the sun is strong. Shade is scarce, and the sky is huge. The birdlife includes vultures and eagles that ride the thermals above the cliffs. The wind, which blows nearly all the time, brings a smell of dry herbs and stone. Take a moment to look down over the edge at the sea and the green coastal plain far below.