Jebel Hafit is the lone mountain that rises out of the desert at the edge of Al Ain, in the Emirate of Abu Dhabi, and it is the highest point in the emirate at about 1,250 metres. It stands almost alone, a long, whale-backed ridge of pale limestone, with the Omani border running along its southern flank, and from the summit you can look out over a wide plain of sand, date plantations and the white buildings of the city. The geology is old and visibly folded, with fossils of shells and corals in the rock.
The slopes are also scattered with ancient beehive tombs, which give the area its place in world history. Dating back about five thousand years, to the Early Bronze Age, these round stone structures, built of stacked local rock, were used for burials, and hundreds of them dot the ridges, some in good condition. They are named the Hafit tombs after the mountain and are part of the UNESCO World Heritage listing for the Cultural Sites of Al Ain, along with the oases and old forts. At sunset, the shapes of the stone towers against the sky are impressive.
The road up the mountain is the reason many riders come. Jebel Hafit Mountain Road runs for about twelve kilometres, with sixty or so bends, and climbs about a thousand metres to a viewing platform near the summit, with a hotel perched on a ledge. It was built with wide lanes and generous corners, the surface is smooth and well maintained, and it is regarded as one of the best driving roads in the Gulf. At weekends and in the evening, it fills with cars and motorbikes, so a weekday morning is calmer, and speed limits are enforced with cameras.
Conditions are demanding in another way, because of the heat. From May to September, daytime temperatures often exceed forty-five degrees, and riding in full gear is hard, so go at dawn or after sunset, and drink plenty of water. The cooler months, from November to March, are far more comfortable. Wind and blowing sand can reduce visibility, and a sandstorm can arise quickly.
Fuel is easy in Al Ain, with stations on all main roads, and the city has plenty of cafes and supermarkets. Al Buraimi, across the border in Oman, is only minutes away, and carrying your passport is sensible. There are no services on the mountain itself apart from the hotel and the cafes at the summit. Date palms, the old oasis and a fresh juice in town make a pleasant finish.