The checkpoint at the foot of the Jebel Akhdar road is where the police decide who goes up the mountain, and it is a stop you cannot ignore. The road climbs from the plain at the edge of Birkat al Mouz to a plateau around two thousand metres, and it is steep, with gradients of up to about twelve per cent and hairpins carved into the rock. Because of that, for years only four-wheel-drive vehicles have been allowed through, and the rules have been enforced strictly. Whether a motorcycle may pass depends on current policy and on the officer on duty, so ask, and be ready to turn round if the answer is no.
If you do get through, the road is memorable. It climbs in tight bends up a massive cliff of grey limestone, with the plain dropping away behind you, and at the top the landscape changes. Jebel Akhdar means green mountain, and the name makes sense: terraced fields, walnut and pomegranate trees, apricots and rose bushes cover the slopes, watered by springs and a clever system of channels. The cool air at altitude, many degrees cooler than the plain, is a relief. Every spring the damask roses bloom, and the villagers distil rosewater from them, a tradition that has gone on for generations.
The rocky canyons nearby are among the deepest in Oman, and the plateau has hiking trails, abandoned villages and viewpoints. Mist can fill the valleys in the morning, and in winter, the night temperature can fall to freezing. It is a real mountain, and it deserves respect.
Izki, about fifteen kilometres away, and Nizwa, a bit farther, have all the services you need. A short stop at the checkpoint will tell you what is allowed. If you cannot go up, there is plenty to see around Birkat al Mouz, and the fort at Nizwa and its Friday market are well worth the ride. Carry your documents, since you may be asked for them, and be polite and patient. A smile and a calm tone will take you a long way in Oman.