Jawatha is an ancient name that appears in the early history of Islam. The mosque here, in the oasis region of Al-Ahsa in eastern Saudi Arabia, is said to be one of the first places outside Medina where Friday prayers were held, in the seventh century, after the tribe of Abd al-Qays accepted the new faith. What remains today is a ruin of low mud-brick walls and the outline of a prayer hall, in a quiet spot among palms and farmland, and it carries great weight for local people.
Al-Ahsa is one of the largest oases in the world, with about two and a half million date palms nourished by natural springs, and UNESCO listed it in 2018. The water, which flows from deep underground and was once warm enough to steam in winter, has watered the gardens for thousands of years and made this a stop on caravan routes between Arabia and the Gulf. The oasis is a green island in a tan desert, and the contrast is vivid when you ride in from the dunes.
The riding is flat, hot and straightforward. The roads are modern, smooth and wide, with highways linking the main towns, and the best time to go is from November to March, when daytime temperatures are pleasant. In summer, heat above forty-five degrees makes the middle of the day dangerous, and sandstorms are common in spring. Fuel is cheap and easy to find in towns such as Al Battaliyah, a few kilometres away, and in the big city of Hofuf nearby, where you will also find shops and restaurants.
In the oasis, the lanes are narrow and shaded, with irrigation channels and walls of palm fronds, and the air smells of earth and water. Dates are the local pride, and in autumn, during the harvest, the markets are full of different varieties. Tea and coffee are offered to guests, and it is polite to accept. Dress modestly, and ask before taking photographs of people, especially women.