Jaswant Garh is a war memorial, but it is also a place with a legend, and the combination makes it one of the most talked-about stops on the road to Tawang. It stands in the high country just beyond the Sela Pass, near the Nuranang river, and commemorates Rifleman Jaswant Singh Rawat of the Garhwal Rifles, who is remembered for his part in the 1962 fighting with Chinese forces in this area. The battle at Nuranang is one of the best-known episodes of that war, and the Indian Army has kept the memory alive here in an unusual way.
The story as told by soldiers and local people is that Jaswant Singh held a post for a long time against advancing troops, helped by two local women, before he was killed. His room is preserved as a shrine, and army staff are said to treat him as if he were still on duty, with a bed made and boots polished each day. Whatever you make of the details, the respect shown by the soldiers is genuine, and many passing convoys pause to salute at the memorial. Visitors are expected to be quiet and respectful, and photography rules should be observed.
The riding in this section is a long descent from the pass through changing landscape. Pine forest gives way to rock and scree and the road follows the valley down, passing small waterfalls fed by snowmelt. The Nuranang waterfall, a short distance away, is one of the best of these, and spray can drench the road in spring. Expect mist, drizzle and rough tarmac, and take care on blind bends where army trucks come uphill in convoy.
You will find tea and snacks at the memorial, usually served free or for a small donation to travellers, a custom of the army posts on these high roads. It is a welcome thing in the cold. Food beyond that is limited until Jang or Tawang.
Bomdila is the last big option on the other side. Carry warm clothing, keep your permits handy, and do not be tempted to ride after dark, as the road is steep and unlit.