Jamestown is a town on an island in the middle of Narragansett Bay, and the sea defines it. Conanicut Island, nine miles long and a couple wide, lies between Newport and the mainland, and until the 1940s you could only get here by ferry. Today two big bridges carry the traffic across, the Jamestown Bridge to the west and the Claiborne Pell Bridge, a graceful suspension span with a toll, to the east, and the views from them are some of the best in New England, with the bay opening in a field of white sails.
The island is surprisingly rural. Farm fields, stone walls and tidal marshes fill the middle, with a windmill built in the eighteenth century standing on a hill, and the village sits on the east shore, with a handful of shops, a ferry landing and a pleasant waterfront. At the southern tip, Beavertail Lighthouse, first lit in the 1740s, is one of the oldest in the country, and the rocky point around it is a favourite place for walkers and birdwatchers. Fort Wetherill, an old coastal defence post, stands on the cliffs nearby, with fine views of the bay.
The roads on the island are short but enjoyable. North Main Road and Beavertail Road wander across the farmland and along the shore, with bends, low hills and glimpses of the water. The asphalt is in decent shape, and the speed limit is low, which suits the setting. The ride across the Pell Bridge is a highlight in itself, with a long climb to the high span and a panorama of Newport harbour. Wind can be strong on the bridge, particularly in the afternoon, and a cross-wind on a light bike deserves respect.
Jamestown has fuel, a small supermarket and a handful of cafes and restaurants in the village, and Newport, five kilometres across the bridge, has everything else. Parking is easy in the village, if you arrive early, and the ferry runs in summer to Newport and across the bay. The island is quiet in winter, and at its best from late spring to early autumn, when the light on the water is clear and the sailboats are out. Sunset from Beavertail is memorable.