Jamal Abad lies in the highlands of north-western Iran, in the Azerbaijan region, a country of rolling steppe, bare hills and high plateaus between the cities of Zanjan and Tabriz. The villages are built of mud brick and stone, with flat roofs, and flocks of sheep and goats move across the slopes in the care of shepherds.
The ride that includes it heads north toward Ardabil, where the Sheikh Safi al-Din Khanegah, a Sufi shrine of the fourteenth century, stands in a walled garden. Its founder, Sheikh Safi al-Din, was the ancestor of the Safavid dynasty, which made Shia Islam the religion of Iran, and the complex of tiled halls, tombs and prayer rooms, with its blue and turquoise tiles, is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Above the town rises Mount Sabalan, an extinct volcano of over 4,800 metres that is capped with snow for much of the year.
The roads in this region cross high passes and long valleys, with sweeping views and few villages, and the weather can change fast. Spring brings green hills and wildflowers, while winter brings snow and ice, so check the conditions before you set out. Fuel is available in the larger towns, but stations can be far apart, and it is wise to start each day with a full tank.
Hospitality is a strong tradition in the Azeri villages, and travellers are often offered tea, bread, yoghurt and honey. A phrase or two in Persian or Azeri Turkish goes a long way. The air at this altitude is clear and cool, and in the evening the light on the hills turns a deep amber, with only the sound of sheep bells to break the quiet.