The Vale do Ribeira, in the far south of São Paulo state, holds the largest continuous remnant of Atlantic Forest left in Brazil, and the Jacupiranga area, near the border with Paraná, is part of that green expanse. The Atlantic Forest once covered much of Brazil's coast, but centuries of logging, farming and urban growth reduced it to a fraction of its former extent, and what remains here, together with neighbouring reserves, forms part of the UNESCO site of the Atlantic Forest Southeast Reserves, inscribed in 1999. The forest is incredibly rich in species, with jaguars, pumas, monkeys, toucans and countless orchids and bromeliads.
The original Jacupiranga State Park, created in 1969, was reorganised in 2008 into a mosaic of protected areas, including state parks, sustainable development reserves and areas for traditional communities, recognising the presence of quilombola communities, descendants of escaped slaves, and others who have lived in the region for generations. The landscape is a maze of mountains, rivers and limestone caves, some of which are open to visitors in nearby parks, with stalactites and underground rivers.
Riding here is an adventure. The BR-116, the Régis Bittencourt highway linking São Paulo and Curitiba, passes through the region, with heavy truck traffic and a history of dangerous stretches through the Serra do Cafezal, now largely duplicated. Off the highway, the roads into the Ribeira valley are narrower, winding through forested hills, banana plantations and small towns, with many curves and some steep sections. Unpaved roads are common, and heavy tropical rain can turn them to mud quickly. The best riding season is the drier winter months, from May to September.
Cajati, about twenty-six kilometres away, is the nearest town of any size, with fuel, shops and restaurants, and Jacupiranga and Registro offer more services along the highway. Food in the region is simple and hearty, with rice, beans, grilled meats and plenty of bananas, which are the main crop of the valley. Carry water and rain gear, because the weather can change quickly. Stop at a forest edge or by a river, and listen to the birds and insects. The Atlantic Forest is one of the most threatened ecosystems on earth, and seeing it alive and wild is a privilege.