Jackson sits in a valley that the old trappers called a hole, a high, flat basin ringed by mountains, and the Teton Range rises straight from its western edge without any foothills to soften the view. The town stands at about nineteen hundred metres, with the National Elk Refuge just to the north, where thousands of elk spend the winter. The town square is marked by four arches made of shed elk antlers, which locals gather each spring, and it is a good place for a photo before you start the day.
Riders come for Grand Teton and Yellowstone, and both are within reach. The road north runs beside the refuge and enters Grand Teton National Park, passing Jackson Lake and giving some of the best mountain views in the American West. Yellowstone's south entrance lies about a hundred and twenty kilometres from town, and the road runs through forest, along the Snake River and beside open meadows where bison and moose are regular visitors. Surfaces are generally good, with speed limits that match the wildlife, and long stretches at fifty-five miles an hour. Wildlife on the road is a real hazard, especially at dawn and dusk.
West of town, Teton Pass climbs steeply to over 2,500 metres on the way to Idaho, with sharp bends and steep grades, and it can be treacherous in wet or icy conditions. For most of the year it is an exciting ride, and the views to the east over the valley are lovely. Summer afternoons bring storms that build over the peaks, and even in July the nights can be near freezing.
Jackson has about ten thousand people, with fuel, restaurants and motels in good supply, though prices are high, especially in summer and during ski season. Book a room early. Local bars still keep the cowboy tradition, with saddle stools at the counter, and elk burgers and bison steaks appear on many menus. Services between Jackson and Yellowstone are thin, so start with a full tank and some water, and carry warm layers even on a hot afternoon.