Jaca is the old capital of the Pyrenees, a mountain town of thirteen thousand people at the foot of the Peña Oroel, with a cathedral, a fortress and a long history. In the eleventh century it was the first capital of the Kingdom of Aragon, and its cathedral, begun at that time, is one of the earliest Romanesque cathedrals in Spain, with a graceful apse and a cloister, and carved capitals that influenced churches along the pilgrim road.
Jaca lies on the Camino de Santiago, the Aragonese branch that crosses the Pyrenees by the Somport pass and heads west towards Pamplona, and in summer the streets are full of walkers with scallop shells. The pentagonal Ciudadela, a huge star-shaped fortress built in the late sixteenth century, stands at the edge of town, and its moat is now a pleasant park, home to a herd of deer. A museum of miniature soldiers is housed inside. The town is lively in winter, as a gateway to ski resorts, and its ice palace was a venue for sporting events.
For riders, Jaca is an excellent base. The N-260 runs east through the foothills of the Pyrenees, a long switchback of passes and valleys, while the road north climbs to the Somport and the French border, through the valley of the Aragón river. Bends are good, the surface is mostly smooth, and the views of the high peaks are impressive. Peña Oroel, a rocky ridge above the town, offers a short, steep road to a viewpoint, and the monastery of San Juan de la Peña, tucked under a huge overhanging cliff, is a short ride to the west.
The food is mountain fare, with lamb, hams, cheeses and migas. In Jaca, finish with a cup of thick hot chocolate and a local pastry. The weather can change quickly, and winter snow can close mountain passes, so check road conditions. In summer, the days are warm, and the nights are cool. Evening is a pleasant time to walk in the old town and listen to the cathedral bells.