The old road from the Iwami Ginzan mine to the sea at Yunotsu and Okidomari was the route silver took to the world. For centuries, ore and then refined silver were carried on the backs of porters and pack horses along a mountain track that dropped from the mine to the Sea of Japan, a distance of several hours on foot. At the coast, ships collected the cargo and carried it to the markets and ports of the country. Yunotsu was a harbour town with a deep inlet; Okidomari, the name of which means something like moorage offshore, was where the boats waited in the bay.
Yunotsu is an unusual place. It is a hot-spring town of old wooden inns and bath houses, with red-tiled roofs, a narrow main street of stone paving, and a small beach, and its hot springs are said to be some thirteen centuries old. The red roof tiles are typical of the Iwami region, glazed in a local iron-rich clay that gives a deep rust colour and withstands the salt and the snow. Walking through the town is like stepping into a quieter century, with the smell of sea and sulphur.
The coast road here, Route 9 and the local lanes, runs along the edge of the sea in a mix of gentle bends and long straights, with tunnels and views of rocky bays, and the traffic is light, so it is a pleasure on a clear day. The old mine road itself is a walking trail, not for motorcycles. In winter, storms from the north bring huge waves and sometimes close the road, and in summer the beaches are lively but not crowded.
Gotsu, the nearest sizeable town with fuel and shops, is about sixteen kilometres away, and that is where to fill. The seafood is a draw: look for fish grilled on the spot, and for the local sweet made from rice. A hot bath at the end of a coastal ride is a perfect reward, and many inns offer day use, so ask. Go in spring or autumn when the air is mild, and watch for sudden showers.